Solar Cooking No comments yet

SOLAR COOKERS: AN INTRODUCTION

By on May 16th, 2012

Solar cookers are ovens that harness the sun’s rays and use them to create a source of heat. They can be used to heat food or drink, cook food, or sterilize drinking water.

Solar cookers are popular in the developing world these days- they can be very inexpensive, some coming as cheap as $5. They don’t require any fuel or electricity, which cuts down on operating costs as well. Since fire wood isn’t used, they help cut down on deforestation (and the often-following desertification). They’re also safer, as wood stoves can be a fire hazard.

But solar cookers can be useful to those living in the western world as well. They offer an alternative to cooking with conventional stoves, if say, you lose power. They can also be helpful if you spend lots of time outdoors. And it can be a fun thing to create for the Do-It-Yourself-ers.

HOW THEY WORK

Solar cookers will use a combination of 4 methods to create a cooking environment.

1) Concentrating sunlight: like a magnifying glass, some solar cookers will collect solar energy, and direct it onto a small point to maximize the heat created.
2) Converting light to heat: most solar cookers have a dark cooking surface that absorbs sunlight and releases it as heat.
3) Trapping heat: a good solar cooker must ensure air and heat stay within the cooking area, to keep the temperatures high.
4) The Greenhouse Effect: many solar cookers incorporate this effect to their advantage, letting sunlight enter but keeping thermal energy trapped.

TYPES OF SOLAR COOKERS

1) Box Cooker
A box cooker is basically an insulated box with a transparent glass or plastic top for letting sunlight in. Additional reflectors focus the energy on a concentrated cooking area. This area is dark to maximize the heat released, and the box itself will act like a greenhouse (the more astute of you will have noticed by now that the box cooker incorporates all four of our above checklist).

A decent box cooker can reach 150+ C in good conditions, not as hot as a traditional stove, but still enough to cook most food (albeit much more slowly). And the good thing about solar cookers is that you can leave food in them all day, and it won’t burn.

It’s best to start solar cooking by noon though, to maximize the direct sunlight you receive. The latitude you live in, as well as the weather and the season of year, will affect how quickly your solar cooker can cook food.

2) Panel Cookers
Panel cookers use reflective panels to direct sunlight into their center, the cooking area (often containing a pot inside of a plastic bag). They tend to be the cheapest, with cardboard-and-foil models costing as little as $5. They produce a low to moderate temperature, not as high as box cookers, but enough to pasteurize milk or water and cook grains like rice. In ideal conditions in good climates, it can get hot enough to cook meat, and on a sunny day can feed a family of 4.

Some models come with a glass case, adding the greenhouse effect to the cooking process and raising the temperatures it is capable of reaching.

3) Parabola cookers
Parabola (although technically called paraboloid in 3D form, but we’re not going to split hairs here) cookers use a parabola-shaped reflective lens to cook. The benefit of this shape is that it naturally takes various streams of sunlight, and directs then onto one point. Parabola cookers are very effective, cooking as well as regular ovens, but are hard to produce and as such are much more expensive. They also require a certain level of expertise to use. They are very common in China, and are effective for large scale cooking.

4) Scheffler cookers
Scheffler cookers, named after the scientist who created them, are parabolic cookers that have the added advantage of mechanically adjusting as the sun moves through the sky. They are the most effective solar cooker, but as you might imagine, also the most expensive.

5) Solar kettles

A solar kettle is a simpler form of cooker, whose aim is to get the water in a kettle past to a temperature past the boiling point of water.

Good luck and stay prepared!

DIY: Do It Yourself!, Solar Water Heating No comments yet

DIY: HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN SOLAR POOL WATER HEATER

By on May 14th, 2012

This article is a guide to building your own  solar pool heater. To learn more about solar pool heaters and what they do, read this article: SOLAR POOL WATER HEATERS: AN INTRODUCTION.

 Pool water heaters are a good way to keep the water in your pool warm. This will allow you to enjoy swimming more in the summer months, and will make swimming possible in the early spring and late fall.

There are gas and electric pool heaters available on the market today, but they require electricity or fuel, and can be expensive (usually over $2000). A solar-powered heater is an environmentally-friendly alternative, and can be a lot cheaper (especially if you build it yourself).

The big obstacle lies in building the solar panel. Once that’s ready, you simply need to attach it to the line that goes from your pump and filter and sends water back into your pool.

HOW TO BUILD THE SOLAR PANEL

This section was originally posted in my article DIY: HOW TO BUILD A SOLAR WATER HEATER FOR YOUR HOME.

Supplies You’ll Need:

In order to build our own panel we will need some supplies:

1) Cedar planks, 5m+ per panel you plan on making, 80mm in width.

2) Plywood board, larger than 1.5mx1m for each panel you plan on making

3) 1.5mx1m aluminum sheet. Decent thickness/quality to avoid warping.

4) 40’ of 10mm annealed copper tubing

5) Primer

6) Black spray paint

7) Insulation foam

8 ) 1.5 x 1m 4mm float glass plate

9) Aluminum foil

Tools You’ll Need:

Some tools we’ll need:

1) Drill

2) Wood screws

Building the Pieces:

1) WOOD TRAY

We’ll start by preparing a wooden tray to house our panel. You’ll want to use a good hardwood that after being coated will last long and resist warping/deterioration. Cedar should work well. Best to pay a bit more for quality now to ensure the life of your unit. Cut the planks into two 1.5m pieces, and two 1m pieces. Use these pieces to create a rectangular frame, and use the drill and wood screws to connect them together. When finished, coat with a wood preservative.

Nail a plywood board to one side of the frame, creating a tray.

2) COPPER TUBING

Next we’ll prepare our copper tubing. Copper is soft and easy to shape, but do this slow and carefully as any kinks in the metal will reduce your efficiency. That can cost you A LOT of money over 20-30 years, so take your time. You can use a round object to bend the tubing around, a beer bottle works great. Shape the copper tubing into a zig zag pattern that maximizes filling the space within the frame, but still has the tubing moving slightly outward after each bend.

Here’s an illustration to demonstrate what I mean:

When you are finished, apply primer and spray paint black. Let paint dry.

3) ALUMINUM ABSORBER PLATE

The next step is to build an absorber plate. Take your aluminum sheet, and clean it thoroughly. Apply the primer to the shiny side. When ready, spray paint it black, and let dry.

Putting It All Together

1) Take your wooden tray, and put a thin layer of insulation foam on the inside.

2) Put a piece of aluminum foil, shiny side up, on top of this.

3) Place your absorber plate on top of this, black side up.

4) Place your copper tubing in top of this, lying on the absorber plate. Drill 2 holes in the wood frame for the copper tubing to come out of.

5) Put the glass plate on top of the open end of the frame. There should be less than inch between the glass and the copper tubing. Attach to the wood frame with a good adhesive and sealant.

FINAL STEPS

Now the solar panel must be connected to the water line. Most pools have a water pump that pulls water out of the pool, pushes it into a filter, and pumps it back into the pool. The solar panel should be attached somewhere in this curcuit, after the filtering step if possible. When the water moves through its filtering process, it will naturally be warmed by your solar panel, and you’ll have much a much warmer pool overall.

If you live in the Northern Hemisphere, your solar panel should face directly south, to maximize the solar energy it recieves. In the Southern Hemisphere, it should face north.

Good luck and stay prepared!

Solar Water Heating No comments yet

SOLAR POOL WATER HEATERS: AN INTRODUCTION

By on May 13th, 2012

Man, that beach ball looks happy.

Let’s be honest- owning a swimming pool is awesome. Some of us in the developed world have the luxury of our very own swimming pool in our back yards, just for our use. It’s an awesome thing. One complaint, though, that is often is heard about swimming pools is that the water is too cold, which can make for an uncomfortable first few minutes in. Even in the dog days of summer, the water in a large pool can be near bone-chilling.

DROPPING SOME SCIENCE

You see, water is slow to absorb thermal energy and slow to release it. This is a very good thing if you live near a large body of water- it keeps the surrounding area cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. That’s why the summer and winter temperatures along the coasts are generally less extreme than they are in the Great Plains.

Unfortunately, the same principal applies for our pools. There are over 10,000 gallons of water in the average pool, leaving the water shockingly cold even during the warmest months of summer. Luckily, there are methods available for making your pool water warmer, allowing swimming to be more enjoyable during the summer and possible during the spring and fall.

METHODS OF POOL WATER HEATING

There are different methods for warming pool water. Electric and gas heaters are available on the market today, but they use electricity or fuel and tend to cost upwards of $2,000. There are pool covers available that absorb heat and keep it in as well. These are great, but have a minimal effect, and are probably bet used as a supplement.  One of the best methods available uses the suns energy itself to warm your pool. These are called solar pool heaters.

SOLAR POOL HEATERS

Solar pool heaters consist of a solar panel, a water pump, and tubing that runs to and from the pool. Cold water (usually located at the bottom of the pool, as warm water will rise) is pumped from the pool to the solar panel, where it is warmed. It is then pumped back into the pool, and the process begins again.

Flat plate collectors are a common form of solar panel used for these kinds of water heaters. A flat plate collector is a flat box, with a transparent top to let sunlight in, and a dark bottom to absorb as much heat as possible. Water is carried through the box through a series of tubes (usually made of copper) where it is warmed.

Generally, solar panels 12 feet by 5 feet (3.5mx1.5m) should be enough for pools 6000 gallons and under in size (of course this will change based on your climate and time of year, but this is on average). The same ratio can be scaled up for larger pools. If you live in the Northern Hemisphere, your panels should face directly south to maximize the solar energy they receive (they should face directly north if you live in the Southern Hemisphere).

Some guidelines for pumps suggest they should be able to deliver 120 gallons/hour, and should be capable of raising water at least five feet two inches (5’2”) in height (or 1.6m).

There are solar pool heaters available for purchase on the market today. If you’re a handyman or woman, check out our article DIY: HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN SOLAR POOL WATER HEATER.

Good luck and stay prepared!

P.S: Happy 30th post to me, woot woot!

DIY: Do It Yourself!, Water 2 comments

DIY: HOW TO DISTILL WATER AT HOME

By on May 8th, 2012

Distillation is a process of filtering and purifying water, resulting in pure, pH-balanced H-TWO-O. The process consists of:

1) Boiling/evaporating the water,
2) Collecting the water vapor,
3) Cooling it to allow it to condense back into liquid, and then
4) Collecting the liquid.

The boiling causes the pure water molecules to evaporate, leaving all impurities behind in the boiling pot. Impurities that distilling will remove include bacteria, viruses, heavy metals, salts, chemicals and particulates. In short, it is a very effective method of creating safe water to drink.

METHODS OF DISTILLATION
There are various ways to distill water.

AT HOME

1. With A Stove
You can distill water at home. You will need:

A stove
A large pot (5+ gallons ideally) with a convex (curving out) lid.
A smaller bowl that fits into the pot

Fill the pot about half way with the water you’d like to distill. Place the pot on a stove element, and turn it to a temperature that will cause the water to boil slowly. Place your bowl in the center of the pot, so it’s floating on the water. Place the lid of the pot upside down, so it curved inwards. Place ice cubes on top of the lid.

The water will turn into steam, and collect on the lid. Because the lid is cold, the steam will condense and because the lid curves inward, will run down to the lowest point and drip into your bowl. Keep the process going until your bowl fills, or gets too close to the bottom of the pan that your collected water begins to boil.

Another adaption you can make is using glass bottles instead of a bowl to collect your water. In this instance, fill one bottle with the water you wish to distill. Connect the two bottles at the top, and place the bottle with water into the water-filled pot. The water in the bottle will evaporate, and flow into the other bottle. Place the second bottle in ice, to cool the steam down and convert it into liquid. Make sure the second bottle is at an angle where the water will collect, and not flow back into the first bottle.

2. Atmospheric Water Generators
These devices extract humidity from the air and convert it into portable water. The process is similar to how a humidifier works, except that they also supply you with clean drinking water.

OUTSIDE

3. Using Bottles
If you have two bottles available to you and warm sunny weather, you can distill water. Fill on bottle with the water you wish to distill, and then connect the two bottles at their openings. Place the bottle filled with water in the sun, and the second bottle in a cooler space. Over time, the water will evaporate from the first bottle and collect in the second. Again, make sure that the second bottle is angled so that water collects, and doesn’t flow back into the first.

4. Solar Still

A solar still collects water from an area that contains moisture, such as soil or plants. a large plastic sheet collects evaporated moisture, and channels it into a collection tub.

5. Rain Water
Mother Nature naturally distills water. When water evaporates from the earth, it leaves its impurities behind. It then condenses in the clouds and falls back to earth. Rain water is perfectly distilled, and if you collect it, it can be used for drinking. Have a large, clean container to collect rain water. When the rain stops, cover the top and let it sit for 2 days, to allow the minerals to settle. It can then be used for drinking.

DISTILLED WATER- IS IT SAFE?

Distilled water is very safe in the short term, as it has had all of its impurities removed. It is water in its purest form. Over the long term, however, there are some concerns with it. The problem is, it’s missing a lot of minerals found naturally in water sources, and it’s not clear the effect this will have on a person long term. So don’t rely on distilled water as your only water source, unless you are also taking a mineral supplement as well.

Good luck and stay prepared!

Disaster Prep No comments yet

TORNADO PREPAREDNESS CHECKLIST

By on May 3rd, 2012

Tornadoes are a big deal in the United States. There are around 1000 annually across the country. Tornado Alley, an area known for this phenomenon, runs from Texas all the way up to North Dakota, and runs from Wyoming in the West to Ohio in the east. And even if you live outside of this zone, you’re not necessarily safe- one of the areas hardest hit in recent years, Northern Florida, lies well outside of Tornado Alley.

Tornadoes are nature’s most severe storms. While their footprint is small, their power is focused and more destructive than any other. Knowing what to do before and during a tornado is an important life skill for people living in most places in North America.

 BEFORE A TORNADO

The first thing you need to do is be aware of weather conditions in your area. Always have a battery powered radio in your home, with some back up batteries, as the power will often go out during a severe storm. You need to be familiar with two terms: A tornado watch, and a tornado warning.

A tornado watch is issued when weather conditions exist that favor tornadoes. It means be cautious and ready. If you’re out, head home immediately.

A tornado warning means a tornado has either been sighted, or tracked on weather radar. In the event of a tornado warning, you must TAKE SHELTER IMMEDIATELY.

Other signs a tornado might be imminent:

1) dark, greenish-colored skies, with low hanging clouds,

2) a roaring wind that sounds like a freight train, and

3) large hail.

If you witness any of these, it is probably a good idea to find shelter right away.

 DURING A TORNADO

Most injuries and deaths during a tornado are caused by flying debris, so the key is to find a safe place to avoid this. If you’re at home, close all of your doors and get everyone to a central room with no windows, on the lowest level possible.

Try to get under something sturdy, like a heavy table or work bench, for added protection. Stay away from top-heavy furniture, like book shelves or cabinets, as they could fall over. Also, avoid being directly below heavy furniture or objects (ie a fridge or piano) as there have been cases of these falling through the floor during a tornado.

Try to avoid long span (large, rectangle-shaped buildings such as gyms or malls) buildings during a tornado. Their design requires their walls to support most of their roofs weight, making them much more likely to collapse than buildings with more support.

If you’re in a car when a tornado hits, get out immediately. The worst place to be is inside of a car. Find a low-lying area, such as a ditch, lie down and cover your head. Stay there until the storm dies down.

Good luck and stay prepared!

Disaster Prep No comments yet

PREPARING FOR HURRICANE SEASON

By on May 3rd, 2012

A satelitte view of Hurricane Katrina. Things are about to get messy.

Hurricane season is a big issue for people living in the Caribbean and the Southern United States. Hurricane season runs fron June 1st to November 30th, peaking around early to mid September, during which the aforementioned places are routinely pounded by tropical storms.

And even if you don’t live in these areas, you aren’t guaranteed safety- hurricane Hazel in 1954 reached as far as Toronto (!) as a Category 1. Hurricanes can create massive destruction, so it’s important to have a plan in the event of one.

BEFORE A HURRICANE

EVACUATION

Your first big decision is whether to evacuate or not. Generally speaking, if you’re in the path of a hurricane, evacuating is a good idea. There are some instances where you MUST evacuate:

1) When the government has issued a mandatory evacuation order

2) When a category 3-5 hurricane is headed your way and you live within 100 miles of the coast, and

3) When you’re home cannot be adequately secured (ie you live in a mobile home).

In any of these instances, your only option is to evacuate.

 If you do evacuate, try to leave as soon as you can. Traffic will be bad, so if you can get moving while most people are still in shock/denial, you’ll be much better off.  Off times (ie early in the morning) are a good time to leave to minimize traffic.

Make sure you have a working vehicle with a full gas tank ready to go when you need it. Have a plan to stock your vehicle quicky with:

1) Food

2) Water

3) Emergency supplies

4) Extra gas if possible (gas stations will run dry quickly, and may not be available for days or even weeks after a hurricane).

Make sure you have a fully charged cell phone on you, as well as extra cash (banks may not be open for a while) and all your important documents.

Have a previously-arranged place you can stay at in the event of a hurricane, far enough to be safe but close enough to get there in a reasonable time and with minimum gas. Know the different routes to get there, as some may be unavailable are backed up with traffic in the event of a hurricane.

STAYING PUT

As I said above, evacuating is probably your best option in the event of a hurricane. But sometimes staying put may be best (ie there isn’t enough time to properly evacuate), and if that is your choice there are some things for you to consider.

FOOD & WATER

 The first thing you’ll need is a well-stocked home. You’ll want at least a couple weeks worth of water stored, at least 56L per person in your family (that’s 4L/person/day for 2 weeks). For more information, check out this article on emergency water supply and storage.

You’ll also want at least two weeks worth of food stored. You’ll want non-perishable, high-nutrient, high-calorie foods stored, and a decent variety as well. For more information, check out this article on emergency food supply and storage.

 This should all be taken care ahead of time, as stores will be cleared out quickly when a hurricane approaches. The last thing you want is a frantic trip to the supermarket to fight for scraps, when there are other things you need to take care of.

 If a hurricane is approaching, cook all the meat in your freezer, then put it back in. It will last longer this way, and allow you to eat it without cooking, which could be difficult if you lose power. Fill any gaps with ice and frozen water bottles, to maximize how long things last.

A barbeque or gas powered stove is a great idea, as it may be your only way to cook if you lose power. A fire place can also serve as a makeshift stove during an emergency.

A back up power generator is also a great idea, to help you cook food, run air conditioning, etc in the aftermath of a hurricane.

 FORTIFYING YOUR HOME

 Some steps to take to make your house a lot safer during a hurricane:

1) close your storm shutters, or board up all your windows.

2) Fill your bathtubs with water

3) Turn off the gas and power

4) Bring in all objects in your back and front yards that could turn into projectiles.

 5) Close and lock all of your doors, external then internal. If there’s a breach, this will stop a wind current from running through your house.

 DURING A HURRICANE

Once you’ve prepared your house, find a central room on the lowest floor possible to hole up in. Keep tuned into a battery-powered radio, which may be your only access to information when the power goes out. Stay there until it’s been confirmed that it’s safe to go outside again.

As a final note, remember to purchase flood insurance in the off season, as the price will sky rocket as hurricane season approaches.

Good luck and stay prepared!

Food No comments yet

EMERGENCY FOOD SUPPLY AND STORAGE

By on April 26th, 2012

An emergency food supply is something every person and family should have. We live in a world where the process of getting food from its source to your table is a complex one, and a break in just one link in the chain can compromise you and your family’s ability to eat.

The list of potential disasters that could threaten your food supply is long and varied:
Hurricanes
Earthquakes
Severe tornadoes
Flooding
Winter storms
Economic collapse
Civil unrest
Zombie apocalypse

It pays to be prepared with a good stash of emergency food you can pull from. Even if you never face a disaster, it can help in tough times financially. Should a spouse lose a job, you have a supply of food to draw from until they get back on their feet.

A good idea is to make a baseline food supply, then add over time. For example, create a 2 week food supply. Then spend $5 a week adding a little bit more to it, so it slowly grows with time.

HOW MUCH TO STORE
This is up for debate, with different sources recommending different time frames. At bare minimum, you should have 3 days covered, as help often arrives within 72 hours. FEMA recommends a 2 weeks supply, and really, if you go through the effort and putting together 3 days worth of food, it’s not much of a stretch to turn it into a 2 week supply. A 3 month supply is really solid, and some people even promote a 1 year supply of food.

Along with your food, it’s very important to store water as well. For information on that, check out this article on emergency water supply and storage.

CALORIC REQUIREMENTS
Before planning a long term food storage plan for your family, you’ll want to have a rough idea of the caloric needs of each member of your family. These can fluctuate based on a persons physique and metabolism, but here are some ballpark figures to get you started.

 Age                     Sedentary              Somewhat active                      Very active
2-3 years old                1000                             1000-1400                                         1000-1400
Female child                1400                             1600                                                      1800
Male child                     1600                             1800                                                      2000
Female teen                 1800                             2000                                                      2400
Male teen                      2000                            2500                                                      3000
Female adult               1800                             2000                                                      2200
Male adult                    2400                             2700                                                      3000

TYPES OF FOOD
You’ll want the food you store to meet these criteria:

1) High calorie, high nutrient food, that will give you the most value for each unit stored.
2) Food that doesn’t necessarily require refrigeration, water or cooking to prepare.
3) Non-perishable food that can be stored for long periods without spoiling.
4) Familiar foods that give your family a sense of morale and security.
5) A variety of food- if you’re eating the same thing everyday, appetite fatigue will set in and you’ll resist eating the same food again.

So with that said, here’s a list of potential items for a long term emergency food supply, with their expected shelf life:

It's best to store your food in a cool, dry, dark place.

SIX MONTH SHELF LIFE
Crackers
Boxed powered milk
Dried fruit
Potatoes
Beef Jerky
Raisins
Most boxed cookies

ONE YEAR SHELF LIFE
Peanut butter
Jelly
Canned fruits and vegetables
Cereals, uncooked instant cereals
Canned nuts
Vitamins

INDEFINITE SHELF LIFE

Store all perishables in airtight containers.

MREs (Meals, Ready-to-Eat)
Freeze dried food
White rice
Dry pasta
Wheat
Vegetable oils
Dried corn
Baking powder
Soybeans
Salt
Instant coffee/tea
Canned (nitrogen-packed) powdered milk

You’ll also want a supply of vitamin, mineral, and protein supplements, to make sure everyone is getting the nutrients they need.

FOOD STORAGE
Some notes on storing food:

Keep your supply in a cool, dry, dark place.
Use air tight, pest-resistant containers.
Rotate your food using first-in, first-out (have your supply of food, then when you go shopping put the new items in the back and use the older items in the front. This will keep your food supply perpetually fresh).
Open boxes carefully, so it’s easier to reseal after use.
Wrap perishable food in plastic wrap, then store in a sealed container, to maximize shelf life.
Put perishables in airtight containers to protect from pests.

OTHER ITEMS
You’ll need some other items to help with food preparation and storage:

A manual can opener
Disposable utensils
Garbage bags
Plastic wrap
Tupperware

Having a gas stove or gas powered BBQ is a great idea, as it will allow you to cook when the power is out. Make sure to do your cooking outdoors.

If you don’t have a BBQ or gas stove, a fire place can be used as well.

Canned food can be eaten out of the can. It can also be heated if you remove the lid and label first. Never eat from a can that’s dented, swollen or corroded in any way.

IF THE POWER GOES OUT
If you lose power in an emergency, you’ll want to eat your food in this order:
1) Eat any perishables in the fridge or in storage
2) Eat freezer food (if you keep the freezer door closed as much as possible, ice crystals in the food can last up to 2 days, keeping it frozen)
3) After the above supplies have been exhausted, move on to your non-perishables.

RATIONING
During a disaster, you’ll want to ration your food to make it last as long as possible. Some rationing tips:

Remember, food can be rationed, water can’t. Always drink enough water every day (1-2L depending on sweat and exertion), and worry about finding more water tomorrow.
Always take in enough calories for the work you need to do. A calorie deficit will weaken you and compromise your ability to do what needs to be done.
Take a vitamin, mineral, and protein supplement daily.

Hope that helps.

Good luck and stay prepared!

Survival Kits No comments yet

EARTHQUAKE SURVIVAL KIT: AN EMERGENCY CHECKLIST

By on April 24th, 2012

This is an earthquake survival kit meant to be kept in your home. For a portable survival kit, check out our article on creating a 72 hour bug out bag.

In the event of an earthquake, it pays to be prepared. While the quake itself will usually last mere seconds, fixing the damage afterwards can take months or even years. In the first few days following a major earthquake, stores may be closed and water and power may be unavailable. Preparing a survival kit ahead of time for such a scenario will allow you to survive it in comfort, should it ever happen to you.

You should keep your kit somewhere out of reach, but easy to get to for everyone in your family.

Here are the items you must consider when preparing an earthquake survival kit:

WATER
First and foremost, you need water for you and your family. Have at least 12 liters for every family member stored (4L/day at a minimum of 3 days). Store the water in plastic containers, in a dark, cool place. For more information on water storage, check out this article on emergency water supply and storage.

Also have some method of purifying water, should you require more and need to sterilize an unknown water source. For more information, read this article on emergency water filtration and purification.

FOOD
You should have at least 3 days worth of food stored for each member of your family. You’ll want high-calorie, nutrient-rich food, that will give you the most bang for your buck (and offer you some comfort). You’ll also want things that are easy to prepare, and don’t require cooking or lots of water to prepare (as these options may not be available to you):

Some ideas are:
Canned meat, fruits and vegetables
Peanut butter
Crackers
Beef Jerky
Granola bars
Crackers
Cookies
Cereal
Instant coffee

MRE’s (Meals, Ready-to-eat)

Freeze dried food

Paper cups and plates, with plastic utensils
Garbage bags for waste

For more info, check out this article on emergency food supply and storage.

Also remember that, if you have pets, you should have at least 3 days of pet food stored for them.

HEALTH/FIRST AID
You’ll need to have a first aid kit on hand to treat any minor injuries and wounds that could result from the earthquake. You could buy one prepared, or read this article and learn how to build your own first aid kit.

Also remember to have extra supplies of special items any family members might need: medication, prescription glasses, etc.

Some sanitation items to have extra of:
Soap
Antibacterial gel
Toilet paper
Extra garbage bags for waste (the toilets might not be flushing for a few days!)
Feminine supplies
Cleaning supplies (including household chlorine bleach for water purifying)

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT
Some additional items to have in your kit:
A battery powered radio, with extra batteries (it may be your only source of information)
A flashlight with extra batteries (it may be your only source of light!)
A utility knife
Matches in a waterproof case
A fire extinguisher
A crescent or pipe wrench for shutting off the gas and water values (only do this if your house has sustained damage or you smell gas).
Pliers
Tape
Aluminum foil
Extra paper and pencils
Extra sewing needles and thread
A gas-powered barbeque or grill (can come in very handy if the power is off for a few days).
Extra cash as banks and ATM machines may be unavailable

CLOTHING, etc
You’ll also want at least 3 days worth of clothing for each member of your family.
Some extra items to have on hand:
Work boots
Ponchos
Sleeping bags, extra sheet/blankets
Warm clothes

IMPORTANT DOCUMENTS
Finally, you’ll want to have all of your important documents in one safe place, should you need to move in a hurry. What you’ll need:
Family records (birth, marriage and death certificates)
Wills
Deeds to house
Insurance records
Bank account and credit card information
Important phone numbers

Good luck and stay prepared!

 

DIY: Do It Yourself! No comments yet

DIY: HOW TO BUILD YOUR OWN VACUUM CHAMBER

By on April 21st, 2012

This article outlines how to build your own vacuum chamber. To learn more about what vacuum chambers are and their various uses, click here.

Vacuum chambers have many different uses in many varied fields. They can be used for degassing (removing bubbles of gas that form when two components are mixed, to keep the mixture pure). They can be used for vacuum drying (pulling off any moisture that may collect during the production process). They can also be used in the process of freeze drying food (removing all moisture from food for easy storage and transport).

While vacuum chambers have many different applications, they can also be very expensive. Luckily, with a little creativity it’s fairly easy to build your own vacuum chamber.

STEP 1: FIND A CHAMBER
First, you’ll need a chamber. Make sure it’s large enough to fit whatever you’re looking to put in your chamber, with a little spare room (the vacuum process can cause some substances to expand). Your chamber must be rigid enough to resist the pressure created by the vacuum environment. It must also be able to resist corrosion and the absorption of moisture and trace gases. Avoiding magnetic interference may be necessary as well, depending on what you’re planning to use your vacuum chamber for.

Aluminum and stainless steel are often used for vacuum chambers, as they meet all of the above criteria. Other effective materials are brass, high-density ceramic, and glass acrylic. Stronger, rigid plastics can be used as well.

The most natural shape for your chamber is a cylinder, as it is the easiest shape for a vacuum pump to work on.

STEP 2: YOUR TOP AND BOTTOM
If your chamber is a tube open on both ends, you’ll need to create a top and bottom. The material must meet the same criteria as outlined above. They also must be able to seal completely, with no gaps for air to escape. Consider attaching a rubber mat to the top and bottom to cushion against the chamber. It will form an air tight seal when the vacuum pump starts sucking, and will allow for a less-than-perfect cut of your chamber ends. It also allows for an easily removable top.

STEP 3: SET UP YOUR VACUUM PUMP
You’ll need a vacuum pump, of certain strength depending on your needs (if it’s freeze drying, you’ll need it to be capable of a pump level below 133 x 10-3). Drill a hole somewhere in the chamber or top, just large enough for the vacuum pump to fit through. Seal with rubber o-rings, making sure there is no air leakage.

Give your vacuum pump a few test runs, and as long as there is no air leaking it should be functioning properly.

Good luck and stay prepared!

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VACUUM CHAMBERS

By on April 17th, 2012

A vacuum chamber is an enclosed space within a rigid structure that uses a vacuum pump to remove all air and gases and creates a low pressure vacuum state. This can be helpful in the production of products that need to avoid contamination or moisture. Vacuum chambers are also useful in some types of food production.

USES
Vacuum chambers have various uses in very different fields. They can be used to test objects that are built for outer space. A thermal vacuum chamber can be used to actually simulate the outer space environment the outside of a spacecraft would experience.

Another common use for vacuum chambers is degassing. When two components are mixed, sometimes gas is created as a byproduct. A vacuum environment can pull these gases away, keeping the end product pure. An example of this method being used is in the mixing of resin and silicone rubbers.

They can also be used for vacuum drying. Sometimes during the production process, liquids can collect on a product. Vacuum chambers can be used to pull the moisture off, keeping the product dry. Combined with heat, this is a very effective method of drying.

Vacuum chambers are also used often in the process of freeze drying food. Food is flash frozen (frozen quickly), then placed in a vacuum chamber where the moisture sublimates (goes directly from solid to gas) and is removed. The end result is the food being completely devoid of any water.

MATERIALS
Vacuum chambers need to be made of a rigid material, to resist the pressure differences created by the vacuum. They also need to avoid other pitfalls, such as corrosion, absorption of moisture or trace gases, and magnetic interference.

Most vacuum chambers are made of aluminum, as it can avoid most of these problems. It’s strong enough to withstand low to medium vacuum environments. It’s non-magnetic, which means it won’t interfere with attempts to control the magnetic field inside the chamber from the outside. It’s also good because it absorbs very little moisture and trace gases.

Some other common materials for low to medium vacuum chambers are:
Brass
High-density ceramic
Glass acrylic

Low to medium vacuum chambers can generally use rubber o-rings to seal their ports effectively.

For high and ultra-high vacuum chambers (having pressures lower than 10-13 atmosphere) stainless steel is often used. It can handle more extreme pressures that other materials can’t, and can be welded, making the seals stronger. It also has the properties of low magnetic interference and resistance to erosion and the absorption of moisture/gases.

High and ultra high vacuum chambers generally need steel bolts to seal their ports because of the increased pressure.

Good luck and stay prepared!